Before you ask, no, this is not an attack on the
American diet per se. It is a
discussion on how we eat today, not what. And I
hope that, by the end of it, I will convince you that what I say has merit.
First, some background. My family has always eaten together. As long as I can remember, we’ve eaten meals,
particularly dinner, as a group. There are exceptions, of course—if my parents are on a business
trip, or if I or my sister or brother had a night with friends—but as a rule,
we ate family dinners.
By the phrase “family dinners,” I mean that came
downstairs at the same time, sat at the same table, and ate the same
food. There
were no televisions. There was
no radio. There
might be music, but it was strictly background. Our only method of sensory stimulation was each
other and our conversation—and, of course, the food.
Now, this had a couple of effects. First, we developed tight family bonds. We know each other, and know we can depend upon
each other for support when necessary. Second, it forced us to stop for a little while. We needed to shop, sit down, and share time
together every day. And we
learned how to make time for that.
Now, here is a dirty truth about America: we
have forgotten how to make that time. We are constantly on the move; we study and work to madness. This is part of the John Henryism of our
society, in which we believe that anything is possible if we work harder. This is where the billable hour comes from; we
believe that more time = more value = more success. We sacrifice the meal as part of this. Witness the advent of the working lunch. Witness the encroachment of extracurriculars and
schoolwork on meals and social time. We are obsessed with more, more, more, more, more, because society tells us that if we’re not
pulling 60 hours of work a week plus three hobbies plus two hours of exercise a
day, clearly we’re inadequate, and who has time to eat or sleep anyway?
The fact is, though, that the billable hour is a
stupid idea. Study
after study after study shows that more time does not equal more value. Any student can tell you that when studying, there is a beautiful
period of two to four extremely productive hours after which, you stop
focusing. You read,
but you stop processing the information. You can’t see the obvious solutions. Your brain, in short, needs rest.
This is why the Ten Commandments include the
Sabbath law. This is the reason that most successful cultures maintain a
tradition of daily rest. Witness the coffee break in the Northeast, the
espresso stop in Europe, the siesta in Spain, the teahouse in China. The
human being is not a machine; he (or she) needs rest every few hours in order
to continue working well. For a very long time, in common life, that rest
took the form of a meal. Not food;
a meal.
Let me explain what I mean when I say “Not food;
a meal.” It is
entirely possible to eat without revitalizing, or even to drain further. The working lunch is one example. Eating while working does not revitalize. Your brain is still working—indeed, it is
working harder, since now you must navigate two tasks instead of just
one. So, food per
se does not
provide the mental energy and strength to navigate daily life. If I want to regain energy, what I must do is
step away from the desk, leave my current task, and do something else.
Additionally, eating alone often depresses
energy rather than boosting it. Eating alone is, frankly, an incredibly lonely experience. Such an experience saps energy rather than
boosting it. And it is
easy to be lonely in modern society. It is frighteningly easy to be planted in the middle of a crowd
and be completely, utterly, and hopelessly alone.
So, when I say, “a meal,” what I mean is an
experience shared with friends, family, or even friendly strangers. When presented with friendly faces and good
conversation, even the darkest mood often lightens. The promise of the family or friendship dinner
is not just the food; it is the group, the conversation, the feeling of belonging. The basic instinct of belonging in a group comes out in the meal.
Why a meal, you may ask? Well, consider this: our places of meeting,
greeting, and gathering are frequently restaurants, cafés, bars, and the kitchen. That is no accident. Humans grew up around the hearth. Indeed, many studies indicate that we literally
evolved around the hearth; that cooking food shrank our gut, enlarged our
brains, and fundamentally changed our way of life. Perhaps most important, the sharing of food and
drink smoothes differences, softens edges, helps reconciliation, builds trust
and friendship. I’m not
certain how, but if I had to guess, I would say that sharing a meal signals an
induction into the tribe. It is a
very visceral act of sharing, an ancient way to say “Yes, you belong here.”
The issue is, as a society, many of us don’t belong anymore. Consider that the percentage of Americans with
no religious affiliation has jumped from 2% to 17% in the past two decades,
particularly among the educated white elite, and even more particularly among
the male part of that elite. That is a loss of identity. We no longer belong to a church. And that
loss is not unique to the churches any longer; we are more isolated from everything. How many of us know our neighbors? City council? Roommates, even? As the world has shrunk, it has become more atomized. As we travel more, we lose the ability
to build long, lasting connections.
And so, we have a class of people in the world that no longer belong anywhere. And that is a terribly lonely state.
For the above reasons, it is easy to be lonely
in modern society. I suspect this is one reason that we see the
advent of social networking sites, or why the rate of mood disorders such as
depression have risen so rapidly. Of course this is not the only reason, but it is a factor. To be lonely for a long time is depressing. To not belong to a group is depressing. Quite
literally depressing. Many
studies have shown that not having a stable social network means a higher
chance of depression, greater likelihood of illness, even a shorter life
expectancy. I
know. I’ve gone
there. I’m still
looking for the way out.
The collapse of the meal is, like it or not,
both an effect and a cause of this problem. To share a meal is, as I said, a very basic and essential way of
saying that a person belongs. But in order to have such an experience, one must belong—or at
least, have a group to which you want to belong. One
cannot create it from nothing. You must find others to share it with.
The thing is, though, that most of us have
others with whom we would like to share a meal. The challenge is who, and when. As part of the individualization and atomization
of society, we no longer have a set schedule as a society. People have activities all over the map, and
they grab food when they can. They don’t have time to sit down to eat a meal with friends. Sharing a meal with a friend has become so rare
that it comes with an element of romance attached.
I have to ask: does it have to be so
complicated? Why has eating, one of the most basic and fundamental
experiences of being alive, become so rare, so difficult, so troublesome that people are working on food replacement pills? Why, in short, have we allowed ourselves
to become so busy that we cannot even care for our health and our
relationships? Can we really say
that this makes us happy?
As for the time argument—most of us do have time to share a meal. We have far more time in our schedules than we
think. You may
even find that, by stopping, resting, and recuperating, you have more time. You will work better. You will work harder. You will have something to anticipate. You will have a goal.
I suspect that some people will read this and
think it is an excuse, that we should work more. Yet, I would pose the question: why?
Why do we need to work more?
Why should we work more if we make enough money, work enough hours, have met our goals of
productivity for the day?
What if what we want cannot be obtained through
more hours at the office?
What if, in fact, work are compromising what we
really want?
Is work, per se, redemptive somehow?
In short, is work the end goal of working?
I value work. I try to work very hard on
my studies and my research. But I don't work for
the sake of working. I
work for a goal that is separate from the work itself, be it discovering a new
scientific law, starting a new student group, or anything else. And one
of those goals is to have time. Time to sit. Time to think. Time to meet
friends, to talk, to laugh, to share something. Because like it or not, we
are social animals.
We do not just like social
interaction. We need it. Or we die.
Few and far between are the people who, on their
deathbed, wish they had spent more time in the office. Most of us wish we spent more time at the hearth.
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